OK. This is it, we are finally on our way home, any second in fact. I type my final bits before we depart. I have organised to take Mike, Kerry, Jose and his wife Rita out to "The best Curry place in Africa". We are heading out for lunch, and to settle financial details with Jose regarding the payments for the cruiser, which should by now be steaming away from here.
We have been at Mike & Kerry's for nearly a week, and believe me, we know it's definitely time to leave here.
I must admit (must I?) that I am really glad to be leaving, not for want of fun things to do, or exciting vacation functionality, or because we are travelled out, but because we are now "At An End" and recognise our limits of staying here any longer.
Last week, we leave Iqana Lodge after 3 days, and tooddle down to Hluhluwe (that SH'SHLewee) Umfolozi Park right in the middle of ZuluLand - another final redoubt for the worlds ever dwindling supply of Rhinos - probably the biggest concentration I have ever been to: something like 1400 White and 1100 Black Rhinos - a truly incredible number.
Apparently at least a fifth of the world's black and white rhino population reside here. There are more Rhino's than the elephant population in fact.
The cell phone is busy again booking up our last few days here in the southern hemisphere.
We do our last "wilds" supermarket purchases in the town before we head into the park - we are really not used to so much in the way of stuff to buy - I will not say I've missed these goods, but after a few months in Zim and Mozambique, you do recognise them for what they are: simply mainly luxuries.
The park is just down the road, and all I needed to say was that we had booked in, and we are through the gates.
Within a few hundred metres of the gate, 3 rhino, elephants, lotsastuff.
There are water holes here. Very pretty area, used to be the Zulu kings own private game reserve before the Brits pillaged it.
We have pre booked our stay at "Hill Top". A fancy name for a lodge, but it is in fact on top of a hill with fantastic views, and turns out to be quite nice in a touristy kind of way.
We immediately notice that we are totally back in Tourist Country. Germans, French, Japanese, Brits. All asking inane questions and changing their money at the local desk rate (about 20% less than bank rate). What beginners!
We feel like we are back in so called "civilisation" again, even though we are hundreds of miles off the beaten track here, it is still very much on the SA tourist circuit.
It's just one night here. Two double rondavels with a shared kitchen.
A swimming pool
attracts our attention, and we are off. Parent & kids games. WOW! this pool is one hell of a chlorine trap, I retire to the shower to get it off . It's awful.
Game run, another toodle. Not much.
Back to Hill Top base and dining.
We find that we have left a large part of our food at the supermarket. We did not pay for it, so I guess that's ok.
Still, we fish around for a home made nosh. No light on the paths, but that's ok. The kitchen is great. Probably our last really great Southern Hemisphere night of stars. It's cold, but once again, stunningly beautiful for this towny folk.
Come morning, and it's our final family loop round a game park. I realise it may be the last EVER. Aiden is now 15, and will probably not want to come this way with his parents again. Ilge & I are always game to head off here, but without the kids? Who knows.
These thoughts are uppermost in my mind as we exit the park gate (not much stuff on route), and head toward the N2.
South Africa again. Neuroses to the fore, lock the doors, charge up the cell phone, PANIC!!!!
It's a relatively short trip to Durban - only about 3 hours, but it feels much longer, probably my dread at leaving our halcyon days finally behind us and quite simply irrecoverable.......
Durban, We meet Mike & Kerry at the surgery, with just a little help from some cell phone directions - as it's Wednesday they end at 1:00PM. Up to a restaurant in Kloof (just up the road from Pinetown) to catch up.
Seems like a lot has happened since Kayla & I left what? 11 weeks ago.
Robbery (they were out), Kerry's mother died and her daughter had her car (and lots of her bosses cash) stolen. Wow - what a lotacrap to live through! Apparently the theives were disturbed, as when they arrived home, all sorts of stuff (including our packed suitcase) was strewn around the house and lawn.
We catch up, check out the food, coffee and head back to re aquaint with the dogs.
We need to take the roofbox off to get into the grounds - electric fences all over. This time the roof box is much heavier than last time we took it off, but at least it is not raining (like last time we did this).
Ilge is fascinated by the local bird life in the trees around the house.
It is a lot cooler than when we left. Posiively cold at night in fact.
We settle into leaving.
Sorting & Packing, organising and disposing.
I eventually call the shipping line, and find out that the boat to take the cruiser back to Hamilton Ontario, just down the road from home in fact, actually leaves in 5 days - next Monday! That means its doing all the paperwork, packing and organising in about a day & a half. It needs to be at the dock 3 days before it gets loaded. It turns out that we have an extra few days, but we get active fast.
The kids seem to simply set into a TV and Dog mode. Aiden anxious to go, Kayla dreading an extra 5 days here, with just me, Mike & Kerry.
We pack a pile of stuff into our time while we are all together, call up a few folks we met on route (Pam & Alan from Bulawayo, and Justin from Hazyview), book flights for Ilge & Aiden to get up to Joburg, buy a few books and say our communal goodbyes.
The Butcher Block - our favourite restaurant in Pinetown, gets another visit from us all.
The weekend of 6th/ 8th up to Himeville: gateway to Sani Pass.
Kerry generously lends us her car for the trip. Last time we came this way in the Cruiser, it took about 5 hours to get there.
At the Himmeville Arms, our hotel for the week end, the Rugby is on (or was it Cricket?) , monopolising the TV and everyone in this sport mad nation, So that is about all that happens while we are there. Not much to go to near abouts except eat and drink - not too bad a past time.
Kerry has booked a driver (and one of those new fangled LandCruisers - I prefer mine), to take us up to Sani Top pub - "The highest pub in Africa". Of course, it does not have the excitement that it did last time with the family and our accommodation reliant on the cruisers ability to crest the next ridge: No, this is real tourist stuff complete with a guided tour of the road up (?), and some of the Lesotho residents. I find it all immensly boring and condesending at the same time.
Back to the chalet for lunch and down the hill - a first for us at the ice bend, to SA again by 15:00. Beautiful drive, but a lot of prattle from our driver. ("Isn't it amazing?", well, no actually). Returning on Sunday,
Monday and we all scout out the beach front and load up with a pile of stuff for friends, Christmas, whatever we can rationalise in fact. Back to pack it all into the cruiser.
Eventually, the Cruiser gets loaded, and its time to send it on its way & I'm down to the docks with it. Its just "Leave it there with the keys in it", and I leave. (It arrived safely 6 weeks later). Lunch with Jose - what a fantastic guy! Thanks again Jose! We head back to Kerry's old pub for a final pint and then to the airport.
Ilge & Aiden depart, Kayla & I feel left behind.
Kerry, God Bless her, has given our final days of freedom here as we use her car for a few days. Kayla & I can finally get out of this place to some horse riding in the Dracks.
We head out in a vague direction toward the Dracks knowing there is the perfect place for us somewhere. An overnight at some forgotten hotel, then into the Giant Castle for our morning coffee.
Eventually we find it: Mount Lebanon Park. It is owned and run by Ashley who is a Brit from way back who has lived in SA for decades. He loves horses and everything to do with them.
What a terrific location in the heart of a World Heritage site in the Dracks.
What a place, and it's exactly what we want. Pristine environment, miles from everywhere, Ashley takes us on some truly incredible treks. riding under, around and through the mountains and we have 3 great final days in the beautiful place.
However, we finally depart and trudge back to Durban in the rain. Back to our temporary home in the Southern Hemisphere.
Wonderful, but, I will be glad to get on the plane again. As much because I miss Zim as I miss Canada and the other half of the family. We have done our "trip of a lifetime" again. We have all survived and loved (almost) every minute of it.
I will be back, maybe to live out my waning days here (wonder if I will ever have "waning" days?), but that is still (hopefully....) a long time off.
God! I love this continent!
And with one mighty flick of the computer power button, he was gone..........
Odometer: 314046 Distance Travelled: 465Km Trip Distance: 360Km, Total Trip 8369Km