|
Friday, November 10th, Fidelity Lodge, Ezulwini, Troutbeck, Eastern Highlands, Zimbabwe
Monday, Nov 6th, and sadly we leave Ndundu Lodge. We have a little cash left, so we take in the once magnificent Bvumba Botanical Gardens - it's a 10 minute walk from our lodge. This was once a splendid garden with an amazing amount of well laid out and tended gardens, streams ponds etc. Sadly, now it's pretty much a shrubbery that is nearly out of control, abutting onto a huge expanse of totally untamed, unmaintained, tropical jungle. We walk through for about and hour. No one has been on the "paths" for months. We all decide that this is not worth any effort, and head back to the tea shack for tea and scones. I think we are the only ones that have been here for days, but as ever, friendly, courteous and genuine service.
We always leave more tips than we should, and occasionally hear the locals tell us that we should not give as much. But it's difficult seeing the hard times these people are facing. Unfortunately, we do not have enough money to visit Tony's exceedingly desirable coffee shop again, so, thinking we will be back (no' 'fraid we did not), we set off to "Hakuna Mutata". This is a timeshare in the Bvumba, and we check out the possibilities of staying for a short week. In Africa, you can have two "short" weeks, Friday to Sunday, or Monday to Thursday, quite a good idea actually. It's splendid view and elevation makes it an ideal stopover for a few days. We talk to the manager, and he will see if it can be organised. Back down to Mutare. This is quite a busy city. It's on the border with Mozambique, so it gets a lot of import/ export traffic. First thing is cash. Kayla and I check out the ForEx shops, and end up in one where there is a European asking the teller for $US. I inform him that I have some to change, he asks what rate and I say 60. This is a bit above the 58 from Vic Falls, but well below the 70 he has to pay. The cleck behind the counter hears me, and immediately bids up my asking price to 63. Wow! The guy in front of me gets out his calculator, "How much do you want to change?" etc....
Until we know what we are doing with the time share, we pass the time at the local wild life area. Looking at the run down little shack, and shell shocked dirt road on the way in, we expect little. Surprise, there are two white rhinos across the dam, piles of eland and other game. A most enjoyable few hours are passed till feeding time. We chat to a couple who have travelled down from Nairobi. Seems the northern countries are expensive and not too safe these days. Come 4:00PM, and the rhinos, and a spare elephant arrive for tea.
Back in Mutare, and the time share cannot be organised. Off to "Drifters" about 20Km out of town. Great place again, but it seems as if we are the only tourist there in weeks. The last entry in the guest book was 2 months ago. Time for a few beers, and we order dinner. Aiden insists on "extra extra crispy chips", and come dinner, that's exactly what we get. Almost inedible, but totally what we asked for. Now, all of you with weak stomachs can skip this next bit.... I ask for some vinegar for the chips (fries to you folks), and try to pour some on. It's in a little sauce type of bottle, but very little comes out. I take out the stopper thinking it's empty. Slurp! The vinegar comes out in a LUMP! Ugh! Barf! Gak! It still smells like vinegar, and working on the premise that vinegar does not go "bad", I scoop up the really mucousy bits, store them safely on another plate and dig in. Hmmmm, this goes quite well with a Zim Sauvignon Blanc. This is fine dining, Africa style. I survive the night with no problems and wake up the next day - still alive. Nov 7th, and back in Mutare, we get some e-mailing/ pix across the net till the speed becomes daft and we give up. Also get more malaria tabs - ours will run out too soon. Luckily we get away without needing a prescription. Helpful Zimfolk again. Pausing only for a few more Zim $ - now I have two pockets bulgeing with the stuff, and a wonderful chicken pita from Nando's, we head off to Chimanimani. On the way there is a grating sound from the front wheel that gets worse as we proceed. I take off the front wheel. It looks like the brake shoes are stuck. I loosen them up as best I can, and deciding to avoid the scenic detour to Chimanimani, we proceed slowly to Chipinge, hoping to find a better garage there. There is only one real accommodation option in town - the hotel has long since lost any attraction to the few European visitors here, this is Ali's Rest. We eventually find it late, and settle in. Seems to be a lot of security guards around here. There is only one option for food - the "club" It too has seen better days, but there is a strong contingent of farmers around. The local wildlife committee meets at the table next to us, Garth, a farmer, garage owner etc chats to us and invites us to stay at his place - nothing unusual here. Once again, there are problems with squatters here - hot as in potentially violent today apparently. He tells us there was a confrontation just out of town. We are made to feel really at home, and join the crown for a few beers. Garth invites us to see his Ostrich farm tomorrow. We find out that there is no definate result to the US election
I book the van in for a brake check for tomorrow. We will be here a few more days yet. We shop for a spag bol dinner. I eventually locate Garth, and we book up for a TV session at his place. Up to his farm and we get the full tour of the Ostrich chicks, the breeding, weighing, incubating and hatching. I think the chicks look like toilet brushes with a head. After dinner - our first at home for a few days, watching TV at Garths, it seems the good ole US culture is still shootin' and maimin' all the bad guys with a vengeance. A quiet day. Thursday, and the van goes in for a fix. Seems that good old Toronto salt has taken it's toll, and the shoes need to be released. No problem, just more time. We are packed and ready to go, but no transport. By lunchtime, the van is still in dock, undergoing major reconstructive surgery around a seized breakshoe. They eventually grind off the offending bits, and having no spares, actually make the spare bolts. Imagine that back home!
On the return trip, we pass the farm that is being invaded, there is a group of people sitting under a tree. It looks like a schooling exercise, but apparently it's the resettlement committee planning it's next move. We pass and wave, they wave back. There is also a lot of growing here - tobacco, coffee. We get the guided tour of the wonders of cultivated nature. We visit a local farmers school, normal state schooling being somewhat basic here, there is a private school set up outside of the system. We meet Gideon, the headmaster. More chat about Zim, farmers and farming. I'd like to send the kids here for a term, it looks really well done. The van is ready to roll, and we realise that we are here for another night, no problem, this is a great place to be stuck waiting for repairs. Dine at the club again, - standard a verage, but welcome fare, and we've missed Garth, a postcard of thanks will have to suffice. Malesh. Still no news on the US election, but there is a new item of a video showing South African police using illegal immigrants as live bait for training their attack dogs on the TV. Hmmm, racism is still well and truly alive in SA. November 10th, and we are off. This is the area where our friend Ricky worked 20++ years ago, and I'm determined to head out to find the coffee and wattle farm where I played, he worked, and eventually, caught a few rounds of AK47 material. We head of South toward the Mozambique border to Mount Selinda hoping to notice something I can remember of the farm.
There is no more diesel in Chipinge, so we still need some more to be certain of reaching SA. On the route to the ruins, there is a garage, that actually has diesel! I'm now in the weird position to limit the amount I fill as I've got a large (25+ Litres) in the back seat giving the kids leg ache for the past 2 weeks. At Masvingo, things are pretty sad. People will exchange their carvings for South African COINS!!! Oh GOD! This is heart breaking! What a power hungry JERK this Mugabe creep is! The tourist beureau is functioning, and informative. There is a park at the ruins that sounds perfect for us. On the way we stop at the mini supermarket. WOW! This is the best stocked shop we have seen since Zambia! Even foreign produce here. Lots of fuel. We check into the ruins rondavels - 2 per hut. Nice enough, fairly new too - everything works, but no kitchen facilities, even though there is a braai outside. Looks like a poor design, but has a great view overlooking the ruins. There are 3 overland trucks here! WOW - there are other tourist in Zim. As it's PM, we satisfy ourselves with a tour of the museum. Propaganda everywhere. The displays are all only a month or so old. Very poor quality - the English text is not even coherent in many places, and is, to my jaundiced racist, ex Rhodesian backpacker eyes, incredibly twisted toward the government (Surprise!). This stuff does not match the version I got on a tour with the curator as my personal guide 20+ years ago (Another Surprise). Everything says "Zimbabwe culture was the civilisation in central Africa from 1300 - 1800." fair enough, but it then goes onto equate Zimbabwe culture to Shona (Mugabe's tribal affiliation) such as "Zimbabwe culture was the same as that still practised by the Shona civilisation" It misses out the fact that historically, Zimbabwe people and Shona people are different tribes. It also glosses over all the not to be mentioned aspects of ancient African culture - the tribes supplied most of the slaves for export and worked with the slavers for profit. All in all, propaganda abounding. This must be cadre central - it feels like it's a central staging area for "The Word of the revolution" here.
In the evening, we walk to the hotel about 1 Km away. We have shandies, and a wonderful meal for all under the stars as the full moon rises over this tropical setting. The tree above us is absolutely infested with what appears to be tiny nocturnal bee eaters or humming birds. Incredibly, even though this is an international hotel, with, possibly international clients, the cost of the meal is exactly the same as the club in Chipinge the previous night. We all toast our incredible trip through this startlingly beautiful and friendly country. Wherever we go in Zim we feel that everyone is there just to help us. It's an incredible feeling. There is absolutely zero paranoia, worry or aggravation - even the squatters are civil. As we drive along, without exception, N'debele, Shona, no difference, the kids and adult on the road wave and shout greetings. NEVER asking for money or being obnoxious - I cannot say that about any where else we have EVER been. These people are simply wonderful, thoughtful, intelligent and friendly: refined is how a local travel magazine puts it, and it's true. They are also scrupulously honest. This has spoilt us for our return to South Africa. Whenever we talk to them, white, black brown - who cares, they are without exception. Everyone wants the current leader removed, preferably by constitutional means, and a new approach to the current confrontation and divisions. This is an incredible country to visit, and anyone who has a mind to vacation or even retire in a safe, happy and beautiful country, can do no better than here. Hurry down - there are bargains aplenty here, and your hard currency will be very welcome. Distance travelled this entry: 740 Km. Distance moved on trip this entry: 640 Km |
Hmmmm, this place smells of propaganda.
The Mozambican floods that were publicised earlier this year, also took it's tool up here - at least 500 Km away. Masses of trees were
The clerk, now asks the guy I'm talking to if he has a letter to exchange foreign currency... he admits he does not and hastily departs,
but the rate holds firm, and I get huge wads of Zim cash in my pocket.
Wednesday, 8th, and we I try to find Garth at the garage. He's gone, so I tank up (I'm the last one allowed to - "empty" they tell the
folks behind me), and we catch up with kids schoolwork, journals and shopping. 
While this is going on, I've collard Garth, and we head out to a tea plantation for a guided tour. We do the entire trip of the tea - too
booring for here, but, 
Last time we only went to army/ mercenary safe points around here, now, we head down a fairly bad road, toward the village. I have
no idea of where we lived, but we make Mt Selinda, take
We head to the café here, but it's passed on, only a curio shop that sells pop and bottled water. It'll do. Back and finally 
