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Monday, November 6th, Ndundu Lodge, Bvumba, Zimbabwe Of all the places we've been so far, this has got to be one of, if not the most beautiful.  This is the Bvumba mountain range. It is a lump of high land just south of Mutare in central eastern Zim. It was very "hot" during the war, so I never got here back then. Right next to this backpacker cum mini hotel, is "Tony's Coffee House". The Lonely Planet guide identifies it as having "Excellent coffee, and some of the finest cakes in the world". They are not wrong - it's a magnificent taste treat. This alone identifies the Bvumba as having it's own entry here. Yesterday, Sunday, we head here to the Bvumba via Mutare - it's only about 120Km. We sadly left Ezulwinni, and pausing only to fill up again with Diesel and peaches from the local vendors once again as we pass through Juliasdale, we head South. The road here is pretty steep, and once at the top, we pass through ancient rain forests and reserves. As we get here to Bvumbu Lodge early, - about 11:00AM,, we check in - it looks cozy & comfortable, and we take the upstairs family room. Having an entire afternoon, we decide to go for a trek to Leopard Rock Hotel - another place devastated during the war. Having very little idea where it is etc, we simply follow "Path #4" and see where it takes us. Well, Leopard Rock is about 5 Km away, this route is straight through a rainforest which pretty well descends the entire height we gained when we drove here - ie about 700 metres. It's very humid and hot. There are at least two places where the signs have "gone missing", and we stumble down past fallen trees and soggy streams - perfect environment for mambas, Cobras and various other poisonous fauna.  After an hour or two of this, we see another sign, take another wrong direction and end up, after several other mis routing, on what must be one of the most scenic golf courses in the world. It's so magnificent, that Aiden wants to do a round of Golf right now. We tell him that he'll have to wait till spring in Toronto, and we find someone daft enough to take him out (ie not me). Are you reading this Tom? We relax with our shandies and pick off the occasional tick - this is the first ever attached to me! After an hour or two, it's time to take the road back to the lodge. This is of course uphill. Pausing only to buy stuff, and chat, we thankfully seep ourselves in the shower upon our return. This place is magnificent - glorious views, cool, damp and fragrant sensations abound. A fire and some Chopin CD's polish off the evening before curries all round. Early AM, and there is not a sound, but NOTHING! I have never heard Africa so quiet. Unfortunately, not stopping in Mutare on the way here, we are nearly out of Zim cash. We have to head back down to Mutare, 30km down the mountain and see where life takes us from here. Distance travelled this entry: 140 Km. Distance moved on trip this entry: 140 Km |
