Thursday, November 2^nd, Fidelity Lodge, Ezulwini, Troutbeck, Eastern Highlands, Zimbabwe

Wow, what a place to hang out and catch up with reading (we are desperately short of even poor reading material), journals, schoolwork and generally enjoying the environment here in Nyanga.

This is right off the beaten track, even past Troutbeck Inn which is pretty remote in itself, and then a jog across country. The view from our 3 bedroomed cabin, high up in the Nyanga hills is stunning. Once again, we are the only tourists domestic or international, for miles or even hundreds of miles around.

Before departing from our time share at Caribbea Bay on Monday, 30^th October, we stop by for a final e-mail, the kids pick up some "Nyaminyami" walking sticks - walking sticks beautifully carved from a solid piece of wood with a depiction of the Zambezi river god plus ancillary Tonga tribal history - you gotta see it folks!, and head off, with some trepidations concerning fuel.

On the borders where we have spent all our time so far, we can simply cross over to another country if we look like running out, or, to be honest, if the security situation worsens to the point where we have to leave Zim. We anticipate no such problems, but, it's a long way to the South African border from here: at least 2 full tanks, or more like 4 fill ups. Much more if we actually head where we plan, and take in the Eastern and southern parts before we leave. Oh well, we have time, we have US dollars, and we can work out any other relevant details from there.

It's a long, hot and sweaty road out of Kariba, about 70 Km of twisting, hilly and usually narrow road. Good condition though. On the way, there are several elephants off in the distance - this is a park incidentally, but not much else is about. Very little traffic on this road - most of the heavy stuff goes via the main road to Chirundu.

At the main Harare road junction, we try our luck at a gas station - long since gave up and now only has a security guard and cokes. About 100Km south, we finally get to use our wipers - the first time since the Namib desert nearly 3 months ago. There is a proverbial cloud burst - typical of the rainy season, and the wipers are hard pressed to keep up. It abates close to Karoi, and we pull into the first gas station still running. These folks have not had Diesel for a month. Hmmmm, we can just get back to Kariba with what we have, but, trusting to luck we head off and chance upon a station which actually has a diesel delivery taking place. We wait for a while, and tank up.

Chinoyi aka Shinoia prior to 1981 is arrived at. This is where "Jock" - the guy we met at Henties Bay way back in Namibia, lives. Or we think so anyway.

Chinoyi has a deep fresh water cave, known for it's deep blue colour. There are two hotel/ motels here, one at the cave. The manager offers us a discount, almost as soon as we are in the door. We come to an agreement and head into town to find "Jock"

Well, we know that there is a small European population here, and eventually find some.

"This may sound like a strange question" says the missus,

"I doubt it" the guy replied,

"Well, do you know someone called 'Jock'?"

"Which one?" he replies,

"We're not sure, but we met him in Henties Bay, Namibia....." this has to be too daft to believe I think to myself.

"Oh!, you want Jock McClean, he's my father in law. Hi, I'm Ian" he informs us, "I'm from Calgary"

etc etc.

So, we have found the person we are after, and we have his phone number. Seems like he is "farm sitting" back up North a bit, so he is not in town.

Back at the Motel, there is a black out, so no phones, light etc. we dine by candle light, naturelement, and somehow, the chef turns out a very good meal, complete with (slightly) chilled Zim wine.

We get through to Jock's wife, and we have a chat. Jock will call us tomorrow.

The power comes back on when we return to our room. We have a TV - just the local stuff, so we tune into the latest rationalisations of the government. All crap. A "debate" concerning land redistribution, turned out to be a didactic tour de force of any reason, improbable, but usually just plain immaterial and bent and twisted, as to the governments continuing efforts. Balance, debate, informative, even factual, it was not.

October 31^st - HAPPY HALLOWEEN! Fat chance here kids.

Jock has already called when we arrive at breakfast, and we have a message.

Eventually, we talk, and he invites us up for a night to the farm sit. "We have squatters, but they are pretty placid" he assures us.

We agree to meet them about 12:00AM after we have explored the local caves.

We spend 2 hours sweating in the caves - we all agree that it was worth it, but that's enough, and after our sweaty exit, we head back North. It's 50Km, and we get there in time for lunch. I am the only one that met Jock, and that was for a full 5 minutes, but as he is the only white man around here, I assume that the first one we meet on the side road will be him. This is he.

We arrive at the farm. It appears that he wanted us there for lunch, so after we actually introduce ourselves to each other, we dine.

Of course there are dogs - specifically arranged here for the kids, plus, there is the farm to investigate and check out the squatters. We do a tour - only about a 200Ha farm this, but complete with kudu etc. This being a cattle ranch, we inspect the cows, and the dipping pits.

The squatters are camped out at the entrance to the farm, we say hi as we pass, and hope that they do not decide that tonight will be the time to show whitey who is boss.

As evening descends, we all listen to the local CB radio. This is exactly the same as the last time I was in Zim during the "struggle". Everyone chatting and listening to what is going on within a 60/ 80 Km radius. When there is some action, everyone hears about it and turns up to provide support. At 7:30PM, we hear that a farmer has been beaten up at Lions Den - about 30Km away. Half an hour later, on the Zimbabwe Radio (very pro government), the news reader informs us that a farmer near our area (Karoi/ Chinoyi), has been

"inciting the war veterans to react to provocation", (ie he did not allow the "war vets" to burn his crops etc) she then further adds that

"such farmers will have their crops seized if this behaviour continues"

This is the self same farmer who was beaten up earlier in the day. Ah....Africa!

Luckily, the night is a quiet and peaceful one, and I for one am very grateful that we have been able to be near the epicentre of this social, political and judicial government inspired chaos.

At breakfast, I hear that the price of fuel has gone up that night. I have visions of much social unrest as we head south into Harare, and out East to the Eastern Highlands.

We depart the farm (Jock is only farm sitting and is leaving today, or we could have stayed longer), and hope to be through Harare before 12:00AM, just in case.

A quick goodbye and thanks, and we are off South.

There is fuel in Chinhoyi and we tank up, hopefully we will not need our spare 25L for this leg.

On the outskirts of Chinhoyi, being a once large tourist area, there is about an acre or more of crafts. Beautiful stuff some of it, but no takers.

Harare at 11:50AM. Lots of police, lots of army, bayonets attached to AK47's. Quite a scene here. We follow the by pass route, so miss the centre. Nothing to it, and we head off to Nyanga.

There are still wonderful little places around, catering to the rapidly diminishing middle classes, and we find one, about 60Km out of Harare. Genteel splendour here, obviously waiting and hoping for things to improve.

Another 100Km, and all the gas stations are either empty, or shut down. Rusape and we fill up. Again, more fuel at Juliasdale. This is going to be a good day.

Nyanga at 16:15 - the information office closes in 15 minutes. It's still open, and we find out about this place, Ezulwini, high in the mountains (about 2200m). It costs $C18.00 per night, marvellous view, free firewood thrown in - you need it here!

We settle in for 4 days.

November 2^nd finds us supping away at a local dairy farm with muffins, milk (I get 1.5 litres of pure unadulterated just milked full cream milk - watch that waistline buster!), and coffee. We look out over the mountains. It's fantastic. The farm is open, so we check out the sights, and watch them milk and make "lacto" (butter milk) from yesterdays milking.

Troutbeck, is about 12Km back down the Nyanga road. We stop in at the (world famous?) Troutbeck Inn, for a lunchy snack, then back to Nyanga for a sniff around.

There was once a thriving craft centre here, now they see a tourist every few days, or so. We watch some of the artists make more stone statues for the eventual tourist boom. They have a lot in stock already.

I get my sandals repaired. The crafts are fine, but we will wait till our exit of Zim before we load up the van.

We have a slow day on the Friday, back to the dairy farm, and the kids get some "schoolwork" attempted. They seem to be giving us more crap now about working. It often take a lot more to get them motivated to do anything except play. I expect next term will be quite difficult for them both.

We braai with a great view.

Saturday, Nov 3^rd, and we tackle a loop around the Nyanga mountains. The road is supposed to be pretty good - it is now a bus route, but it's heavy duty hills and twisting slope makes for a rally drive scenario for me the driver. We pass through beautiful villages and valleys right on the Mozambican border, but I'm exhaused by the time we get to Aberfoils - about 80Km and 3 hours later.

This country club, being on the border with Mozambique, took a loot of shelling etc during the war. There are still bunkers facing the border here. There is a downpour as we have lunch.

On the way here, and out, we pass through the tea plantation - very pastoral and soothing. It's a long way out of the Honde valley, but some spectacular scenery. We fill up at Juliasdale, and all in all, a successful day, but we're glad to be back home.

Distance travelled this entry: 850 Km.

Distance moved on trip this entry: 700 Km

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