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Monday, October 30th, Carribbea Bay, Kariba, Zimbabwe
Today, we resume our oddessy, but this time, it's with a feeling that we are at last heading home, even if it is still 8 weeks away. Even this (8 weeks), is still far more than the wildest vacation period for all but the most independent of travellers, so we can come to terms with this aspect. During our stay here, I found an e-mail place, and was able to pick up some Toronto news. Sadly, one of our good friends, Jim Loveland, who had been ill for a few years, died last Tuesday. Patty, his wife was not sure whether to tell us or not, but she e-mailed us anyway. It's very difficult to accept this at such a distance. We called her and had a long chat; we think of heading back, but Patty will not hear of it. This news takes us all back, Jim had survived so long and against so many odds, that we had every confidence that he would carry on. Sad days for us, and Patty. Up to this news, we had been doing straight vacation stuff. The only other family in the complex who were from Zambia, left on Wednesday, and the place is now exclusively ours. We go skinny dipping at night, have the water slide to ourselves, and at the restaurant at the nearby casino, have incredible service. Once again, Zim cannot carry on like this for much longer, and the manager and waiters we talk to all tell us that they expect to be out of work sooner rather than later. This is Shona country - this is now the ruling party's tribal background, and the feelings here are exactly the same as in Matebele country.
There is yet more sun, schoolwork and pool. There is very little else here. Again, there are lots of arts and crafts, once again at silly prices. One seller was so desperate, he would take payment in Zambian Kwatcha - this currency is even worse than the Zim dollar. We see occasional house boats on the lake, and the ubiquitous "kapenta" boats out trawling for small fry fish. These fish were introduced to the lake by Zambia back in the 80's, and the lake which now supports a fishing industry of sorts. Kariba is a strange geographic place. Just like the landscape through the last 100 Km in Zambia, the area is hills - everywhere. Plus its quite confusing. Kariba "centre" is at the top of a hill - about 5 km from the lakefrnt, with a few shops, (there were more until the supermarket shut recently), post office, municipal offices and crafts. The actual Kariba area, is right on the lake, and down the main Harare road. I drive all over the place trying to locate stuff. One day we head up for lunch at the club - same sad story of grandeur reduces to scraps and flaking plaster. The membership is Z$40.00 each, the view is worth this much, but lunch is literally un eatable. This is a first for Zim. The week passes. I e-mail a few times, Ilge, Aiden & Kayla but a few more goodies, once again, embarrassingly cheap, and we read, swim, sun do maths, geography, French (mostly in the pool) and some more current affairs - Africa division. We find a foreign exchange that give a fair rate (Z$55.00 = $US1.00) with no commission. The casino/ resort offers 51.00 but then wants another 6% commission on top of that. There is a fair amount of fuel here, so I fill up one of the jerry cans, just in case - we have no idea of what to expect in the interior. Ilge knew some people here in Zim 20 odd years ago, in Harare and they are still listed in the phone book. We phone, innumerable times, but there is no answer. We even send a telegram - which cost $Z8.75 or $C0.15, but still nothing..... Occasionally we meet and talk with some of the staff here, David & Susan are typical - they are married, he is a manager here at Caribbea, she a partner in a hotel near Vic Falls. They are both very worried about how much longer they themselves, their family and their country can continue like this. One amusing item about the prices here, at the supermarket, I find local gin (quit acceptable to us plebs), cost $C2.50 - this is the full 750mL bottle bye the way. The large bottle of tonic costs almost this much!
That however, was it, that evening the clouds roll in as we loll in the pool, once again watching the lights of Kariba come up. Lightning flashes, and finally, 1 week ahead of schedule, the rains begin. First showers, then torrents of it. Finally, a change from wonderful never ending beautiful sunny days. Tom, Amanda & Britney call us on Sunday, 29th, and it was good to catch up again. Seems that we missed some fine weather in Canada..... well, guess what. We leave some of our clothes and food with the "houseboy" - plus a tip, I doubt if he will be getting much more of this for a while. The family talk becomes more and more "what do you want to do first when you get back?". Psychologically, we are already heading home. We change a barrow load of money to see us through to Mutare, maybe a week away, and stack it in the safe. Without this security, we would I'm sure be nervous wrecks. It's not too difficult to break into the car, no one has yet, thankfully, but with an alarm blasting and faced with a safe with a combination lock hidden in the bowels of the machine, we feel our cash, cheques, tickets, passports, laptop, cameras and films are pretty well secure. I'd strongly recommend a safe for all international travellers. Distance travelled this entry: 70 Km. Distance moved on trip this entry: 0 Km |
Finally, our days are numbered, the rains are here and we are all, at least cerebrally, gearing up to leave Africa.
We have spent the week with the kids, doing some 
On the Friday, 27th, the temperature carries on climbing - well past 40, if we had not survived it, I would have called it 
